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Blog In-Store Dining Newcastle Restaurant Reviews

A First Taste of Hjem : Express Menu at the Fenwick Newcastle Pop-Up

I’ve been familiar with the word hjem all of my life. As a child growing up in the North East of England, a person’s home was often referred to as their “yem”. In later years, when a turn of events led to me living in Norway, the word became part of daily life.

Hjem is the Norwegian word for home. My observation of life in Scandinavia was that people would far rather be outdoors in the fresh air than stay inside. Still, home is a place of warmth and comfort which you feel glad to return to.

Restaurant Hjem is nestled in the Northumberland countryside and uses produce from the region in its Scandinavian-style cooking. The restaurant holds a Michelin Star which it first gained in 2021. Hjem currently has a residency in Fenwick department store in Newcastle and I had the opportunity to try it out last week.

The Food

With less time available than I would have liked, I opted for the “Express” three-course set menu. (Though I was assured there was no need to rush!) Three leisurely courses could be enjoyed in the time I had.

Slices of chilled, cured salmon arranged on a plate with a garnish of thinly sliced pickled cucumber, two different dressings, sprigs of dill and golden crumbs.
Gravlax, Dill Creme Fraiche, Pickled Cucumber

The menu started off with a plate of dressed gravlax. The salmon was tender and silky textured. The curing process provided seasoning without overpowering the flavour of the fish. Freshly pickled cucumber added a slight crunch and a sweet sharpness to balance out the richness of the salmon. Freshness was added with dill-infused creme fraiche and a drizzle of oil/vinegar-based herb dressing. A final flourish of fresh dill sprigs with their grassy, anise flavour and some crunchy crumbs added texture and balance to the dish. The flavour combination carried me straight back to my Norwegian home. The starter was accompanied by a generous portion of gorgeous, crusty sourdough bread and butter.

A cooked, sliced, Flat Iron steak arranged on a plate with a garnish of dressed, green salad leaves. Flakes of sea salt crystals can be seen on the surface of the seared steak.
Flat Iron Steak
A close-up image of golden, crisp-looking french-fry style chips with a sprinkling of red and black spices.

The second course was a Flat Iron steak with brown butter hollandaise. Had I been handed a bowl of that sauce, a spoon and nothing else, I’d have left the restaurant happy. It was as rich and deeply flavoured a hollandaise as you will ever taste, but it was also incredibly light due to aeration. It was just exceptional.

The Flat Iron steak was well seasoned and carefully cooked. The meat had been seared well which enhanced its flavour. The crust provided texture and a slight “chew” giving way to the very soft pink interior. It oozed juice and flavour. The spicy fries were hot and crunchy and the salad – merely a handful of mixed leaves – was elevated to something special by thoughtful dressing.

A close-up image of glistening, thick rice pudding with a pool of dark red berry jam. A sprinkling of ground cinnamon can be seen garnishing the dish.

To end the meal, a dish of creamy rice pudding – in the Swedish Style – was served along with jam. The ten-year-old me would not believe a time would come when I’d love rice pudding. I couldn’t bear the stuff. At that age, I’d yet to discover the Scandinavian (and Greek) way of making a very thick and creamy pudding and serving it well chilled. I didn’t know how good it can be.

The jam (I like the simplicity of jam being called what it is without resorting to extravagant vocabulary) was a dark, sweet, flavoursome conserve of autumn berries with just enough sharpness to counter the richness of the dairy dessert. Once again, I was transported back to my former Nordic home but at the same time to the blue skies of the Greek Islands.

The Wine

The wine list was interesting. A couple of wines caught my attention but I listened to descriptions and suggestions before ordering. To accompany the salmon, I chose the recommended skin-contact wine. Sometimes referred to as “orange wine” (but not always particularly orangey in colour) I’ve never found one I’d like to drink for the sake of it. Pair it with the right food, however, and it takes on a whole new character. This wine’s aroma held no appeal – fresh but not fruity, sharpish but without depth and just the faintest whiff of something akin to petroleum. Tasted with the gravlax, it started to feel creamy and revealed a richness and slight spice. Just enough sharpness remained to balance the rich salmon.

Two possible wines were suggested to accompany the steak. I opted for the slightly lighter red which had peppery and faintly smoky notes. Again, its richness and smoothness emerged when combined with both the meat and that stunning hollandaise.

To finish, I enjoyed a glass of sparkling Vouvray to accompany the pudding. Vouvray, from the Loire Valley, is one of my favourite wines and I don’t often see the sparkling version on restaurant lists. I wouldn’t have thought of pairing this wine with such a rich dessert but the suggestion worked well.

Prices:

For the purpose of this stand-alone review of the Express menu, I’ll limit any information to this meal only. The price of the Express menu is £25.00. A service charge of 10% is added which I understand to be discretionary. (In my opinion, the service merited the “tip”.) Of course, add a glass of wine or two and an extra snack and the price will quickly climb. It would be easy to double your bill.

Nonetheless, I’m a great fan of the model of set lunches. They offer diners the opportunity to sample a chef’s talents and cooking style at a modest price when compared with eating similar dishes from a la carte or tasting menus. For me, this Express menu rates among the best value in town at the present time. (A vegetarian equivalent menu is also offered.)

Accessibility:

The restaurant is on the first floor of the store. Lifts and escalators are available. There are toilets close to the restaurant but these are accessed by stairs. An adapted toilet is available on the first floor.

In summary:

Sometimes it’s best not to mess with traditional foods and dishes. This meal demonstrated that principle very well. There was no part of the Express menu which was especially innovative or experimental. It was simply a collection of good quality ingredients prepared and cooked with skill and with a very pleasing result.

Whilst the decor and ambience of a temporary, in-store dining room is unlikely to match the carefully crafted styling of the flagship restaurant, this space is bright, airy and uncomplicated – in line with Nordic principles. Service was excellent. Staff were friendly, engaging and knowledgeable. I learned enough about this restaurant, its head chef and team members to want to return and sample more.

Details:

Head Chef: Alex Nietosvuori 

Address: Restaurant Hjem, Fenwick, 39 Northumberland Street, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 7AS

Fenwick Website: fenwick.co.uk

Booking Website: favouritetable.com

A.P 31 October 2024

Photo Credits: © A.P.

Please note: an edited version of this review appears on the Tripadvisor website under the username Aileron777.

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Blog In-Store Dining Newcastle

More In-Store in store!

I seem to be focussing quite intensively on in-store dining at the moment and on one store in particular: Fenwick Newcastle. The reason is, quite simply, that this is a fast-moving, changing scene. In some cases the opportunity to try out a brand collaboration cafe or pop-up restaurant is temporary, even fleeting.

My most recent visit to the store fulfilled a desire I’ve had for some time: to dine at Hjem, the Michelin-starred, Scandinavian-inspired restaurant in Northumberland. The travel distance and the fact that I’d need to drive there had been off-putting. When it came to my attention recently that Hjem is participating in a residency at Fenwick’s flagship store in Newcastle city centre, I was delighted. Finally, I had an opportunity to try Alex Nietosvuori’s menus in a location near to my home and easily accessible.

My first experience of Hjem came on a day when I had a pre-existing appointment in Newcastle, leaving me with a reduced amount of time free. The shorter, “express” menu seemed perfect for the occasion and offered an opportunity to try the cooking style of the restaurant before committing to a more extensive – and more costly – set of dishes.

I left the restaurant with a resolution to return and sample more dishes whilst the opportunity lasts (which is until the end of December 2024). The first review of Hjem at Fenwick will be published shortly.

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Blog In-Store Dining Newcastle

Fred’s at Fenwick Newcastle: A Modern Cafe with a Nostalgic Theme

My initial impression on viewing this dining area was of a turn-of-the-century French cafe.  Bistrot-style tables with marble tops and metal pedestals; simply styled wooden chairs; black and white chequered tiled floor. This, it turned out, was precisely the aim of its designers.

History

A note on the menu explains that the Fred in question was part of the Fenwick family who founded the store. Fred Fenwick loved French culture and had an interest in the era known as the “Belle Epoque“. In 1911 Fred opened a tea room in the store and that piece of history has inspired the opening of this new cafe.

There are also touches to the decor which suggest the Jazz Era of the Roaring Twenties – the motifs and fonts of the menu design; the positioning of palms. A sleek, curved bar conjures images of a streamlined ocean liner from the thirties.  Were those features intended to allude to the decades which followed the Belle Epoque and the ongoing march of time? I could ponder for hours on that point but moving on from the style of the cafe, what did I discover about its substance?

Despite being situated in the basement of the department store the cafe has an airy feel and is in a relatively quiet spot tucked away from busier footfall areas.

The Food

While waiting to be greeted by staff at the cafe entrance, there’s an opportunity to browse patisserie items in an adjacent chilled cabinet. The patisserie looks exquisite.  They have been executed with precision, care and flair. Whether they taste as good as they look, I cannot say since I wanted a savoury option on that occasion – an early, light lunch.

The signature product of this cafe is a “Supreme Croissant”,  a very recent re-invention which came out of New York and is loosely based on a traditional croissant.  A butter-rich, sheet of laminated dough is wound into a spiral to form a crisp, crunchy disc.  

I noticed the ‘BLT’ on the menu – “Beef, lobster & truffle in a ‘Supreme’ croissant”.  At £16.50, it was more than I wanted to spend, particularly on this first opportunity to try the cafe.  As I was considering alternatives I noticed the waitress glancing repeatedly at her watch.  Was I taking too much time, perhaps?  In fact, she was checking the time as we were coming up to noon when morning items on the menu would cease to be available.  Helpfully, she volunteered the information that a smoked salmon and cream cheese filled croissant would – for a few more moments at least – remain available.  That suggestion was perfect.  I ordered it but then wavered on the decision of what to drink with it.   I had in mind something chilled and sparkling and the menu offered Moet & Chandon Champagne, Prosecco and cocktails. Thinking out loud, I mused that I used to dislike Prosecco. I’d tried some poor examples in the past but then had been impressed with some I’d tasted recently.  Without hesitation, the waitress offered to bring a bottle for me to read the label.

A well-chilled glass of Prosecco arrived and it was a very good match for the lightly smoky, softly textured salmon.  This drier style wine was perfect to pair with the rich, cream cheese.  The “Supreme Croissant” itself had a precision-made appearance and a deeply golden crust.  It was crunchy but feather-light. I missed the light, airy interior you would normally associate with croissants. However, this crisp disc was a good contrast to the soft filling.

Accessibility

The lower ground floor is accessible by both lifts and escalators.  An accessible toilet is available within the store.  A baby changing room is also provided in-store.

Prices

As for prices, the Supreme Salmon Croissant was £8.75 and the glass of Prosecco £10.  (Filled Croissants start from £6.50).  Salads range from £12.50 to £14. Wine starts at £7 per glass and Champagne from £15 per glass.  Hot drinks range from £3 to £5.50.  

A service charge of 10% is added automatically but described as discretionary.  

Comment

The promise of a “modern twist on a classic tea room” is justified.  With good quality ingredients, attractive food presentation and pro-active service from staff in a pleasant environment, I would be happy to return. Having seen the standard of patisserie on display, the prospect of a “Fred’s” Afternoon Tea* seems very promising. I shall report back on that in due course!

Details

Address: Fenwick, 39 Northumberland Street, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 7AS

Telephone: 0800 783 1783

Website: fenwick.co.uk

Notes:   This is a “walk-in” restaurant though pre-booking is required for a full afternoon tea. 

A.P.

Photo Credits: © A.P.

Please note: this review has also been published on “TripAdvisor” in edited form under the username “Aileron 777”.

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Blog In-Store Dining Newcastle Restaurant Reviews

Saltwater Fish Company

Whenever I’m visiting a city for the first time, I seek out fish restaurants in the vicinity. I adore seafood and will eat it at every opportunity. With that in mind, I can’t really explain why it took so long to visit Newcastle’s Saltwater Fish Company. Actually, I do know the reason. I don’t like bar stools. More specifically, I dislike sitting on high seating at a bar counter for anything other than a drink or snack.

The Seating

Saltwater Fish Company’s dining area is arranged around two counters with bar stools which are immediately adjacent to a fishmonger’s chilled display cabinet and an open kitchen. Fenwick Food Hall customers can buy wet fish to cook at home or they can stay and eat at the dining counters.

Eventually, the strength of temptation overcame my dislike of perching and I braced myself to try some light dishes at the elevated, marble-topped counters. After a few visits I was relieved to discover that it is possible to be seated at a “normal” dining table in the attached-at-the-hip Porterhouse Butcher and Grill and order food from Saltwater’s menu. You can even mix and match. Choose one course from Saltwater then the next course from Porterhouse, for example.

The Food

I’ve taken advantage of that flexibility on many occasions and grown to be enamoured with the quality of the produce and the skilled treatment of the seafood. I’ve also appreciated the friendly service with staff willing to advise on dishes and accompanying wines. The wine list is well chosen and from time to time, some very interesting “guest” wines are available.

It would be difficult to choose a favourite dish from this kitchen. Each time I’ve eaten a meal there I’ve been inclined to rate it as the “best yet”.

The key to the success of Saltwater’s cooking is the use of supremely fresh produce as a starting point.  Then there is a willingness to add classic sauces and garnishes to some of the dishes while at other times offering inventive, even rather surprising combinations.  Whether traditional or avant-garde, the accompaniments never overshadow the fish.  The seafood remains the star of the show every time a plate leaves the kitchen.

An All Day Menu changes with the seasons and offers a range of dishes from snacks to main courses and desserts.  In addition, a blackboard displays the day’s specials. 

A speciality of this restaurant which I have yet to try are their “Fruits de Mer” platters. I’m also of little help in recommending desserts as I’m usually too full before I reach that section of the menu!

The most effective way to describe the variety of Saltwater’s food is visually!  Some highlights:

Oysters: raw, cold dressed and hot dressed:

Calamari: Grilled and Deep Fried:

Scallops:

Main Courses and Side Dishes:

And the winner is:

I did say it would be difficult to choose a favourite dish from this kitchen. Not impossible though. Utterly hopeless at cooking monkfish at home, I only eat this fish when a skilled professional cooks it for me.

When the daily “specials” board offered a starter of deep fried monkfish pieces accompanied by wild garlic aioli, the combination sounded irresistible. It was the juiciest, most flavoursome, most tender monkfish I’ve eaten and all encased in a hot, crunchy coating. The aioli – from foraged wild garlic – had the texture of silk and a flavour which had depth but avoided overpowering the fish. It was just spectacular in every respect.

Accessibility:

Saltwater Fish Company is situated on the ground floor of Fenwick department store. The nearest store entrance is located on Northumberland Street and can be accessed without the need to negotiate steps. The restaurant does not have it’s own bathroom facility but toilets and washrooms are situated within the store and can be accessed either by lift or escalators.

Prices:

Starters are currently priced from £9 to £19, main courses from £18.50 to £48 and desserts at £7 to £13. Oysters are normally priced starting from £4 but are often on offer. Plateaux de Fruits de Mer start at £80.

Comment:

I’ve eaten in seafood restaurants on the French and Portuguese Atlantic Coast, in Mediterranean and Aegean villages, in Norway and in the southern United States. I’ve enjoyed fish in Britain cooked by Nathan Outlaw, Tom Brown and Roy Brett. The dishes coming out of Chris Eagle’s kitchen at Saltwater Fish Company rank among the best I’ve ever tasted.

Details:

Executive Chef: Chris Eagle

Address: Porterhouse Butcher and Grill, Fenwick Food Hall, Northumberland Street, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 7AS

Telephone Reservations: 0191 239 6613

Restaurant Website: saltwaterfish.co.uk

Reservations can also be made through Open Table’s website or App

Management: Terry Laybourne’s 21 Hospitality Group

A.P. 26 August 2023

Abbreviated versions of this review appear on tripadvisor.co.uk under the profile Aileron (@aileron777 ) and on OpenTable under the profile AmaziliaPeacock.

Photo Credits:

All photographs © AP

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Blog Food and Drink Producers

Laneberg Wine: Update

Laneberg Winery, Gateshead

I’m really sorry to have received an email update today from Laneberg Wine informing customers of the impending closure of the business.

This adventurous, ambitious venture will be missed though I feel certain that the winemakers behind the brand will continue to move forward with their skills and experience and we will be hearing from them again at some point in the future.

For anyone thinking of trying the wines, there is still some stock of their red varieties available in their online store:

lanebergwine.com

I would like to wish Elise, Liam and all associated with the business well in their future ventures.

A.P.

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In-Store Dining Newcastle Restaurant Reviews

Porterhouse Butcher and Grill : Review

A glass of champagne and a wooden tray with three small dishes of snacks: green olives, savoury popcorn and spiced nuts. Set on a marble-topped dining table.
Afternoon Offer: Champagne and nibbles.

For some time I’d considered the best deal in town to be the afternoon treat offered by Porterhouse Butcher and Grill.  For £9.99 it was possible to take a break from the bustling streets and stores of Newcastle’s busiest shopping district and sit in the quiet and calm space the restaurant offered.   Sipping chilled champagne while grazing on savoury treats, I found it to be the most reviving, restoring and really quite delicious indulgence.  

What impressed me was not only the wine from a respected champagne house – served perfectly chilled – but the thought and preparation which had gone into the tray of “nibbles”.  Succulent anchovy-stuffed olives, a selection of nuts spiced and roasted beautifully and – something which has claimed its place in my list of favourite savoury snacks – truffle flavoured popcorn.  A variety of colours, flavours and textures all of which complemented the champagne well.   That afternoon offer achieved the goal I suspect it was intended to – to encourage the customer to stay or to return for a more substantial meal.

Over a period of months I tried light dishes in Porterhouse. Those light meals and “small plates” were all enjoyable with good quality ingredients carefully cooked and presented. On my last visit – just prior to the onset of pandemic-induced restaurant closures – the main feature of the meal was steak. Porterhouse offers a range of dishes but – as the name points to – what this restaurant is really about is good quality steak.

Cuts of steak come in many shapes and sizes and to make matters more complicated, different countries and regions sometimes use different names for the same cut. Not relying on the menu alone, I asked a staff member for advice and recommendation. This proved to be a wise move as the meal I received was exactly what I’d had in mind.

Picanha Steak

The 220g pichana steak was ordered. It came with a very simple garnish – watercress leaves – and a portion of chips along with a selection of mustards and a béarnaise condiment. The presentation could not have been plainer in fact I’d describe it as austere. The simple display served to make the meat the focal point. There was nowhere for the chef to hide. No pouring sauce to cover imperfections whether in appearance or flavour, no frills to distract. The steak would have to be cooked to perfection and a very good quality piece of meat.

The steak was tender, juicy and packed with flavour, having been seasoned well enough to enhance but not so much as to overpower. The thin-cut chips ( people outside of the UK would likely call these French Fries ) were hot, crunchy and well seasoned. The watercress, which had appeared little more than a colourful decoration, proved to be a good compliment for the steak as it provided freshness and a peppery kick. To accompany the meal, a glass of Amaru Malbec was an excellent match – just as the waiter had advised it would be.

The cost of that 220g picanha steak meal was £19.90. (Currently £24.80) There are cheaper steak meals to be found in Newcastle city centre and, to be frank, that is part of the reason it took me a while to stay for a full meal at this restaurant. A mental barrier had initially gone up at the idea of spending this amount on a meal at a venue other than a “proper restaurant” – one where it would be easy to sit and relax and I’d be happy to pay for the restaurant experience as much as the food itself.

What those occasional champers-and-nibbles treats had provided was the opportunity to discover that once inside the dining area and settled, it really did offer a “real” restaurant experience. Staff were friendly and knowledgeable about the menu, food was cooked very well using top-rate produce and the ambience was really quite enjoyable.

The decor of the dining area is what I would term a muted monochrome with cheerful additions of colour. Rather than a severe black and white contrast, ivory colours are set against a backdrop painted dark brown and upholstery in a muted orange shade adds warmth. Marble topped tables add to the cool, airy feel of the dining area. Should you wish to watch the chefs in action, stools are available to sit at a counter and watch over the food preparation area. The restaurant is not fully closed off from the store, so it is still possible to observe activity in Fenwick’s Food Hall, but I can’t say I’ve found that feature either noisy or an intrusion.

You may be wondering where my descriptions of starters and light meals are hiding. Reviews on those dishes will be included in a future review because – and this is not as complicated as it sounds – they came from a different restaurant! Porterhouse Butcher and Grill is situated immediately adjacent to another 21 Hospitality Group restaurant, The Saltwater Fish Company. Another reason for my hesitance to dine at Porterhouse had been, quite simply, my preference for seafood. It took me a very long time to learn that these two restaurants operate what I would term “a mix and match” approach. On many an occasion I’d been undecided whether a juicy steak main course trumped a succulent seafood starter until I eventually “twigged” that I could combine the two.

Prices:

Steak cuts and other main courses from the Grill Menu range from £19.90 to £41. Snacks are offered for around £5 and “small plates” are priced from £10.50 to £18.80. Desserts cost from £6 to £9.50. In addition to the Grill Menu, a blackboard list offering larger cuts of steak and a mixed grill menu allowing customers to compile their own selection of items is available.

Wine is offered by the glass starting from £6.70. Bottles begin at £26 and go North (quite a long way North!) into the range of wines which the restaurant describes as its “Big Guns”.

Look out for offers such as the one currently available at the time of publishing: “Autumn in the City” which includes a 150g rump steak served with peppercorn butter, watercress and shallot salad and thin-cut chips for £14.50.

Accessibility:

Porterhouse Butcher and Grill is situated on the ground floor of Fenwick Department Store. The nearest store entrance is located on Northumberland Street and can be accessed without the need to negotiate steps. Although the restaurant does not have it’s own bathroom facility, several toilets and washrooms are situated within the store and are accessible by lift or escalators.

Comment:

In my opinion, the cost of meals at Porterhouse mean that this venue is one I’d have to regard as a “treat” rather than an everyday fuelling station. In some respects, this reflects my personal approach to buying meat products in general. I’d rather eat a small amount of a very high quality product infrequently than purchase cheaper meat more often from outlets where the source of the products and their farmers’methods of rearing and feeding animals is unknown.

In Summary:

This in-store restaurant from the 21 Hospitality Group offers freshly prepared food from carefully selected producers. Staff are approachable and friendly and help customers make menu choices that they will enjoy without, in my experience, attempting to up-sell either the food or wine. The dining area is comfortable, airy and provides a good atmosphere in which to relax.

Details:

Executive Chef: Chris Eagle

Address: Porterhouse Butcher and Grill, Fenwick Food Hall, Northumberland St, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 7AS

Telephone Reservations: 0191 239 6612

Restaurant Website: porterhousencl.co.uk

Store Website: fenwick.co.uk

Reservations can be made through Open Table’s website or App

A butchery counter is located at the entrance to restaurant, within Fenwick Food Hall.

A.P. 31 October 2021

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In-Store Dining Newcastle Restaurant Reviews

Porterhouse Butcher and Grill

A view of the exterior of Fenwick Department store in Newcastle upon Tyne as viewed from Northumberland Street.
Fenwick Department Store, Newcastle upon Tyne

I was pleased to receive an email a few days ago from 21 Hospitality Group, the group of restaurants and cafes in Newcastle and York headed by chef Terry Laybourne.  I was pleased to learn that  Porterhouse, one of the group’s restaurants within Fenwick department store in Newcastle city centre, is once again able to offer dining seven days a week and I was glad to have my memory jogged back to the last time I dined there. 

To be more specific, my visit to Porterhouse in March 2020 was the last time I ate out anywhere – just as the global pandemic was beginning to apply its grip and activities which we had come to view as normal began to be curtailed.

I remember my thoughts as I sat at my table watching the staff working around the grill and service areas:  “This may well be my last visit for a while”.  As the months passed, I started to view that meal out as a sort of pre-Covid personal landmark .  I pledged to myself that if this restaurant could survive the financial and practical difficulties the pandemic was causing that I would make it the first restaurant to head for when the dust settled from this extraordinary global event.

I wondered what might have been holding me back from reviewing the restaurant.  Perhaps uncertainty about prospects for the survival and continuation of businesses in the post-pandemic phase had been acting as a restraint.   Now, with the restaurant up and running, it’s time I converted my recollections and scribbled notes into a report.  Look out for a review of Porterhouse Butcher and Grill midweek.

A.P.

24 October 2021

Photo Credit: ID 156303264 © Kerry Taylor | Dreamstime.com

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Food and Drink Producers

A Serendipitous Encounter : Laneberg Wine

The Discovery:

During the Covid-19 “lockdown”, when I was trying to put together a gift hamper, it struck me that a jar of Fortnum and Mason’s marmalade and a tin of their tea would perfectly complete my basket of goodies.  In the “B.C. Era” – that’s Before Covid – I’d pass through Heathrow’s Terminal Five about once a month and often stop by Fortnum’s outpost at the airport to pick up a few gifts. The pandemic had curtailed that opportunity, sadly.

With no trip to London on the horizon, I searched for Fortnum’s website and discovered the items I wanted were readily available to buy online. Despite having only a few items on my shopping list, I whiled away a considerable amount of time examining all of the categories. I gravitated to the drinks “department” and saw a Bacchus wine on display.  

An image of the exterior of Fortnum and Mason's department store in Piccadilly, London.
Fortnum and Mason’s store, Piccadilly, London

Once again, I must offer my gratitude to Mr Gordon Ramsay* – on this occasion for introducing me to the Bacchus grape variety. Having arrived at Heathrow far too early for my flight a few years ago, I passed the time in Chef Ramsay’s Terminal Five restaurant, Plane Food.  I ordered a main course of bream.  “The Bacchus” came the reply when I asked the waiter which wine might best match the fish.  The wine/food match was spot on and I was truly smitten with the wine!

When the opportunity arose to try a Bacchus from another winemaker, via Fortnum’s website,  I could not let it pass me by.   A further intriguing discovery clinched the deal.  Reading the ‘product information’, I learned that the wine had been produced in the North East of England. Further investigation revealed that it had been made by Laneberg Wine based in Gateshead.  This wine had been produced six miles from my home!  For someone living in an urban area and also in the northerly half of Great Britain, this news was wholly unexpected.

With a little further research, I learned that Laneberg Wine is produced by Elise Lane at her family run firm which seeks out the highest quality grapes from across England.  

Image showing the exterior of the building of The Winery by Laneberg, situated in Gateshead in North East England.
The Winery by Laneberg.

Soon, my bottles of Bacchus 2019 were making a return journey to the North East of England and they arrived very well packaged and protected.

The Bacchus 2019:

When I opened a bottle for the first time, I was struck by the intensity and the freshness of the elderflower aroma.  The fragrance was powerful and transported me in an instant to a summery English countryside scene.   Pouring the wine and swirling it in the glass released not only the elderflower perfume but added scents of grass and sharper fruit – apple and a hint of citrus.  Those scents were reflected in the wine’s flavour but there was an additional herbal layer followed by a lingering, spicy aftertaste.   The wine was as refreshing and beautifully floral as I hoped but rather more complex than I’d expected.

An image of the label from a bottle of Laneberg winery's Bacchus 2019. This label displays Fortnum and Mason branding.
Fortnum and Mason Label Bacchus 2019

Food Matches:

A few weeks ago, I decided to chill one of the bottles ready for the upcoming weekend as I thought the food I’d planned would match it perfectly.

Beginning the weekend with grilled sea bream fillet accompanied by pesto mashed potato and fine green beans, this wine worked every bit as well as my experience in that first encounter at Heathrow.  

The next day, asparagus risotto was on my home menu.  With English asparagus at its peak,  the risotto was superb and the pairing with the Bacchus was just sublime.  ( I feel compelled to explain:  my Kenwood K Cooker tackled the preparation and cooking of the risotto for me.  Without this piece of equipment, risotto would not be one of my culinary strong points!)

Finally, grilled salmon with steamed, fresh green vegetables was another very good match for this wine.

Comment:

There is so much more which could be written about this wine and the Bacchus grape variety but I’m not an expert in viticulture or wine tasting, merely an enthusiastic consumer! 

There is also a great deal more I could write about the Laneberg winery but I’m holding back on that right now.  I very much look forward to visiting the winery for a tour and tasting experience when it is possible to do so and that will be a far more appropriate time to put pen to paper once again.

Details:

You can buy Laneberg’s wines directly from their website.  The wines are also available from several retailers and they are served in a list of restaurants.  I’m not going to attempt to list those outlets here, far better to go straight to the website to get up to date information: 

https://www.lanebergwine.com

*   PS:  Just in case you are wondering about the previous occasion when Mr Ramsay provided me with much appreciated information – pop over to capitallettersdotblogwordpress.com where you’ll find a review of “La Garrigue”, an Edinburgh-based French bistro!

A.P.

28 July 2021

Photo Credits:

Fortnum & Mason, Piccadilly, exterior: ID 25750393 © Jan Kranendonk | Dreamstime.com

Laneberg Winery; Bacchus 2019 label: Amazilia Peacock

Categories
Food and Drink Producers

The Winery

Am I alone in thinking that we can travel the world sampling wonderful wines and food and yet be oblivious to what we have on our own doorstep?   Based in the North East of England and living in an urban area, the last thing I would have expected to find in my locality was a winery. Yet, a winery is exactly what I did discover though via a rather circuitous route.  Via London, to be precise.

The tale of how I came to find this urban winery – and a review of one of their wines – will be soon be posted on EatNorthEast.

Categories
Dining at Home

House of Tides @Home

Look what I just made!

Well, of course, I didn’t do any such thing. These dishes were prepared for me to heat up and serve at home. And yet, I felt a sense of accomplishment which I hadn’t anticipated. I’ll come back to that discussion later but first, let’s get down to describing the food.

Ordering:

The process of ordering a House of Tides @Home meal online is quick and easy but I also telephoned the restaurant with some queries while I was in the process of placing the order. The staff I spoke with were welcoming and helpful. I had a particularly interesting conversation with the restaurant’s sommelier. ( I have learned – perhaps the hard way – that listening to the sommelier serves only to enhance the experience of meal. Another subject I’ll come back to on a later occasion!) Being at home and only having access to online deliveries, wine choices were always going to be limited. None the less, the advice and recommendations of wine types to match the various courses were very helpful.

A “Pre-Starter Starter”:

An “amuse bouche” was included in this menu. A light, smooth, smoked cod’s roe dip to be eaten with onion palmiers. The charred onion flavour of the crisp palmiers was more intense than I’d anticipated and it struck me that this might overwhelm the delicately flavoured mousse. But it did not. The combination of flavours and textures – smooth with crisp – was perfect.

(May I add at this point, I would not normally associate a Michelin dining experience with having a little plastic pot on my plate! What might appear to be laziness on my part is, instead, a reflection of my dislike of waste. I refuse to waste any of the dip while ‘decanting’ it and I refuse to indulge in unnecessary effort.)

Starter:

A Jerusalem artichoke velouté with a garnish of hen of the woods mushrooms, roasted hazelnuts, artichoke pieces and chives.

Jerusalem artichoke soup is something I make at every available opportunity while they are in season. It’s simple to make and, in terms of flavour, it’s one of my favourite soups. I had hoped this version would be as good as my own home-made. ( Ooh, get me! ) This turned out to be masterclass in how to make and serve a simple, vegetable based soup.

The velouté was velvety smooth and intensely flavoured with that hint of smokiness and earthy flavour which artichokes have. The hen of the woods appeared to have been lightly pickled – or dressed – in a sweet fruit vinegar ( apple, perhaps? ) and that sweetness and acidity lifted this simple soup into something quite spectacular. The firm texture of the artichoke pieces, the crunch and flavour of the roasted hazelnuts and the freshness of the chives added further layers to the eating quality of the whole dish. I think I would rate this dish, though made from a base of very simple ingredients, as the stand-out course of the meal for me. It was stunning.

Beautiful Bread

A small loaf of gorgeous malted bread was included – something I was still eating and enjoying the next day!

Fish Course:

Baked Cod, Bouillabaisse Sauce and Mussels.

A fish course is my favourite part of a meal. Or, if given a choice for a main course, I will always choose fish over meat. This was the dish I’d been looking forward to most.

My poor presentation skills on display!

I sincerely hope the chefs who devised and prepared this dish will forgive me for displaying their creation in a less than flattering way, but I think the image can still convey the idea of what this fish course is about. It’s essentially a very fresh piece of quality cod nestling in a full-flavoured sauce. If I could be given the opportunity of having a second bash at preparing any of the courses of the meal, this would be the one!

Serving the fish the right way up would be a good idea, but even before that, I’d pay more attention to the cooking time of the fish. I can’t bear overcooked fish ( who can? ) and I often take the concept of erring on the side of caution too far. This fish wasn’t massively undercooked but it was definitely more translucent than I would have preferred. None of this really detracted from the dish, however. If I could have made one tweak, it would have been to take the saltiness down a notch, but this didn’t alter the fact that the outstanding feature was the freshness of the fish and that the fragrant bouillabaisse sauce complemented it very well. The mussels not only added texture to the dish but had that taste-of-the-sea that adds depth and freshness.

Main Course:

Chicken breast and wing with Boulangère Potato, Shiitake and Kale

For a second time, I should be requesting the chef’s forgiveness for displaying an image of another dish I’ve butchered – literally, this time – but on this occasion, it was only the carving and presentation which was lacking. I had paid more careful attention to the heating instructions with the end result that it was cooked (almost) to perfection.

All of the garnish items were perfect – the kale, the mushrooms and the pomme boulangère. The chicken breast with its crunchy skin and the little tender boneless wing piece were excellent. The meat was moist, succulent, tender and packed with flavour. (If I ever cook this at home again, I’ll be even braver with the heat under the pan and render down the skin fat even further but as it was, it was delicious.)

The crowning item, however, was the café au lait sauce used to dress the dish. I’ll be quite frank here, I was disappointed to see such a small quantity of sauce in its little plastic container as I transferred the items from their delivery box to the fridge. (Usually, I provide my chicken portions with swimming trunks in preparation for dealing with the quantity of gravy I’m going to swamp them in.)

My fear was unfounded. When the cafe au lait sauce had been warmed and had taken on a more fluid consistency, the quantity was exactly right to complete the dish. None of the taste profiles of the individual ingredients of the sauce were in evidence, but rather this was a perfect marriage of flavours. This highly flavoured sauce needed to be used in just the right amount. The only way I can think of to describe the sauce’s outstanding flavour would be to say that it was intensely “chickeny”.

Cheese Course:

A cheese course is an additional option with the @Home menu. I opted for it. (Is a cheese course worth the price? On this occasion, my answer would be “yes”, but we’ll have a full discussion on that theme another day.)

The set of four cheeses represented a classic selection in that a goat’s cheese, a soft white rind cheese, a blue cheese and a cheddar-type were included. All four examples came with a written description, not only of their flavours but of their provenance. I’m very much in favour of knowing the sources of my food and the reassurance this brings in terms of the producers’ methods and ethics and, ultimately, in the quality of food I’m eating. Clearly, much thought had gone into the balance of the cheeses in the selection and also in their quality.

The hand-made crackers, adorned with poppy seeds, were crunchy and delicious. The sweet, fruity chutney was as good as my home-made. (Yes, get me again, but I stand by that claim! I’ve been making chutney at home for over forty years and I’m really quite good at it!) I think the point I’m making is that the chutney was hand made and made with thought and care.

I did what Raymond Blanc taught me ( via the telly, sadly, and not in person ) in that I ate the cheese course before the dessert and tackled the cheeses in the order of flavour strength. This plate was something to really linger over.

Dessert:

Plum and Vanilla Cheesecake with Thyme Roasted Plums and Cinnamon Granola

Quite some time elapsed before I tackled the dessert. Perhaps one advantage of eating a multi-course meal at home is that there really is no limit as to how long you can take to “rest” between plates!

The dessert proved to be one of those dishes which has a deceptively simple appearance but outstanding flavours and great balance.

The cheesecake was softly and smoothly textured, so I assumed it was a ‘set’ cheesecake rather than baked. The plum jelly topping wasn’t there just to look smart, it had great depth of flavour as well as adding an additional texture. The griddled plum was firm, fragrant and delicious and the crowning feature was the cinnamon spiced, sweet, crunchy granola.

There is an expression which I often misquote but it goes something along the lines of “the whole is more than the sum of its parts”. In other words, all of the items forming this dish were good in their own right but put together, they were excellent.

And to finish:

The final part of the meal was a dainty petit four: a softly set, bite-sized chocolate tart. A dark chocolate and miso caramel tart to be precise. With rich, deep chocolate flavour and a hint of saltiness, it was perfect little flourish on which to end.

Comment:

If I had to choose between a “dine-at-home” option and a meal in a restaurant there would be no comparison. I’d eat in a restaurant every time. I’m not just paying for the food and the cooking skills, I’m paying for the experience. I want to discuss the dishes with the staff. I want to learn about the provenance of the ingredients and the accompanying wines. I want to enjoy the atmosphere and environment that only a restaurant can offer.

However, in these strange days which have been so profoundly altered by a global pandemic, I’m thrilled to have the opportunity to enjoy really good food and to continue discovering restaurants and chefs from my region. I’m planning to write a blog article at a later date about the whole cook-at-home experience and whether or not it is something which is daunting ( it isn’t, is the short answer!) but for now, I’d be very happy to recommend the experience – certainly from the House of Tides kitchen.

Vegetarian Option:

Quite clearly, I did not choose the vegetarian option. However, my sheet of cooking instructions included those for the dishes I would have had, had I gone down the vegetarian route.

A caramelised onion cream cheese tart would have taken the place of the smoked cod’s roe dip. In place of the fish course, I would have enjoyed spinach and ricotta ravioli with pak choi and tarragon cream sauce. My main course would have been honey roasted butternut squash with black garlic, shiitakes and kale.

Having tasted the sublime flavours of that artichoke velouté in my own menu choice, I would have complete confidence in Kenny Atkinson’s team’s ability to achieve excellent results without meat or fish featuring in the dishes. In fact, I feel very tempted to try the House of Tides @Home vegetarian option for myself.

Price Guide:

A dine at home menu for one is £50.00. A meal for two is £100.00 and £200.00 for four. The optional cheese course is £12.00 for one and £20.00 for two. Bottles of wine ranging from £28.00 to £30.00 may also be ordered online. The delivery charge is £12.00 within the available postcodes (NE1 – NE15 and NE20 – NE34).

In summary:

I enjoyed my meal hugely and would be happy to order from the @Home menu again in the future. Of course, dining at House of Tides in person would be an even better option but, for now at least, the dine at home alternative is a very good one.

Chef Patron:

Kenny Atkinson

Awards:

One Michelin Star, 2015 – 2020,

AA Restaurant Guide, Four AA Rosettes, 2017 – 2021

( please see the restaurant’s website for the full list of awards)

Details:

House of Tides, 28-30 The Close, Quayside, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 3RF

Telephone:

0191 2303720

Website:

houseoftides.co.uk

amaziliapeacock: 3 March 2021

Categories
Dining at Home

Thinking Inside the Box

I can hardly contain my excitement! It’s been almost one year since the global pandemic started to re-shape our lives. Eating out is a treat I really miss.

My phone does that thing where it decides to display photographs from the same date one year ago and images of stunning food (in a London restaurant) were reminding me of what I had been missing these last twelve months.

With no immediate end to our current way of life in sight and with tantalising emails arriving from my favourite restaurants in London and Edinburgh offering home delivery, I felt rather envious of those who live within their catchment areas. Not to be thwarted, a little online research revealed that a highly-regarded local restaurant was also providing a dine-at-home option.

Quite why I hadn’t already visited House of Tides is something I can’t explain. It has been a missed opportunity. Now however, even in these days of “lockdown”, I had the chance to sample the handiwork of chef Kenny Atkinson and his team.

Look out for the upcoming review of this House of Tides @Home meal.