I’ve been familiar with the word hjem all of my life. As a child growing up in the North East of England, a person’s home was often referred to as their “yem”. In later years, when a turn of events led to me living in Norway, the word became part of daily life.
Hjem is the Norwegian word for home. My observation of life in Scandinavia was that people would far rather be outdoors in the fresh air than stay inside. Still, home is a place of warmth and comfort which you feel glad to return to.
Restaurant Hjem is nestled in the Northumberland countryside and uses produce from the region in its Scandinavian-style cooking. The restaurant holds a Michelin Star which it first gained in 2021. Hjem currently has a residency in Fenwick department store in Newcastle and I had the opportunity to try it out last week.
The Food
With less time available than I would have liked, I opted for the “Express” three-course set menu. (Though I was assured there was no need to rush!) Three leisurely courses could be enjoyed in the time I had.
The menu started off with a plate of dressed gravlax. The salmon was tender and silky textured. The curing process provided seasoning without overpowering the flavour of the fish. Freshly pickled cucumber added a slight crunch and a sweet sharpness to balance out the richness of the salmon. Freshness was added with dill-infused creme fraiche and a drizzle of oil/vinegar-based herb dressing. A final flourish of fresh dill sprigs with their grassy, anise flavour and some crunchy crumbs added texture and balance to the dish. The flavour combination carried me straight back to my Norwegian home. The starter was accompanied by a generous portion of gorgeous, crusty sourdough bread and butter.
The second course was a Flat Iron steak with brown butter hollandaise. Had I been handed a bowl of that sauce, a spoon and nothing else, I’d have left the restaurant happy. It was as rich and deeply flavoured a hollandaise as you will ever taste, but it was also incredibly light due to aeration. It was just exceptional.
The Flat Iron steak was well seasoned and carefully cooked. The meat had been seared well which enhanced its flavour. The crust provided texture and a slight “chew” giving way to the very soft pink interior. It oozed juice and flavour. The spicy fries were hot and crunchy and the salad – merely a handful of mixed leaves – was elevated to something special by thoughtful dressing.
To end the meal, a dish of creamy rice pudding – in the Swedish Style – was served along with jam. The ten-year-old me would not believe a time would come when I’d love rice pudding. I couldn’t bear the stuff. At that age, I’d yet to discover the Scandinavian (and Greek) way of making a very thick and creamy pudding and serving it well chilled. I didn’t know how good it can be.
The jam (I like the simplicity of jam being called what it is without resorting to extravagant vocabulary) was a dark, sweet, flavoursome conserve of autumn berries with just enough sharpness to counter the richness of the dairy dessert. Once again, I was transported back to my former Nordic home but at the same time to the blue skies of the Greek Islands.
The Wine
The wine list was interesting. A couple of wines caught my attention but I listened to descriptions and suggestions before ordering. To accompany the salmon, I chose the recommended skin-contact wine. Sometimes referred to as “orange wine” (but not always particularly orangey in colour) I’ve never found one I’d like to drink for the sake of it. Pair it with the right food, however, and it takes on a whole new character. This wine’s aroma held no appeal – fresh but not fruity, sharpish but without depth and just the faintest whiff of something akin to petroleum. Tasted with the gravlax, it started to feel creamy and revealed a richness and slight spice. Just enough sharpness remained to balance the rich salmon.
Two possible wines were suggested to accompany the steak. I opted for the slightly lighter red which had peppery and faintly smoky notes. Again, its richness and smoothness emerged when combined with both the meat and that stunning hollandaise.
To finish, I enjoyed a glass of sparkling Vouvray to accompany the pudding. Vouvray, from the Loire Valley, is one of my favourite wines and I don’t often see the sparkling version on restaurant lists. I wouldn’t have thought of pairing this wine with such a rich dessert but the suggestion worked well.
Prices:
For the purpose of this stand-alone review of the Express menu, I’ll limit any information to this meal only. The price of the Express menu is £25.00. A service charge of 10% is added which I understand to be discretionary. (In my opinion, the service merited the “tip”.) Of course, add a glass of wine or two and an extra snack and the price will quickly climb. It would be easy to double your bill.
Nonetheless, I’m a great fan of the model of set lunches. They offer diners the opportunity to sample a chef’s talents and cooking style at a modest price when compared with eating similar dishes from a la carte or tasting menus. For me, this Express menu rates among the best value in town at the present time. (A vegetarian equivalent menu is also offered.)
Accessibility:
The restaurant is on the first floor of the store. Lifts and escalators are available. There are toilets close to the restaurant but these are accessed by stairs. An adapted toilet is available on the first floor.
In summary:
Sometimes it’s best not to mess with traditional foods and dishes. This meal demonstrated that principle very well. There was no part of the Express menu which was especially innovative or experimental. It was simply a collection of good quality ingredients prepared and cooked with skill and with a very pleasing result.
Whilst the decor and ambience of a temporary, in-store dining room is unlikely to match the carefully crafted styling of the flagship restaurant, this space is bright, airy and uncomplicated – in line with Nordic principles. Service was excellent. Staff were friendly, engaging and knowledgeable. I learned enough about this restaurant, its head chef and team members to want to return and sample more.
Details:
Head Chef: Alex Nietosvuori
Address: Restaurant Hjem, Fenwick, 39 Northumberland Street, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 7AS
Fenwick Website: fenwick.co.uk
Booking Website: favouritetable.com
A.P 31 October 2024
Photo Credits: © A.P.
Please note: an edited version of this review appears on the Tripadvisor website under the username Aileron777.
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