My initial impression on viewing this dining area was of a turn-of-the-century French cafe. Bistrot-style tables with marble tops and metal pedestals; simply styled wooden chairs; black and white chequered tiled floor. This, it turned out, was precisely the aim of its designers.
History
A note on the menu explains that the Fred in question was part of the Fenwick family who founded the store. Fred Fenwick loved French culture and had an interest in the era known as the “Belle Epoque“. In 1911 Fred opened a tea room in the store and that piece of history has inspired the opening of this new cafe.
There are also touches to the decor which suggest the Jazz Era of the Roaring Twenties – the motifs and fonts of the menu design; the positioning of palms. A sleek, curved bar conjures images of a streamlined ocean liner from the thirties. Were those features intended to allude to the decades which followed the Belle Epoque and the ongoing march of time? I could ponder for hours on that point but moving on from the style of the cafe, what did I discover about its substance?
Despite being situated in the basement of the department store the cafe has an airy feel and is in a relatively quiet spot tucked away from busier footfall areas.
The Food
While waiting to be greeted by staff at the cafe entrance, there’s an opportunity to browse patisserie items in an adjacent chilled cabinet. The patisserie looks exquisite. They have been executed with precision, care and flair. Whether they taste as good as they look, I cannot say since I wanted a savoury option on that occasion – an early, light lunch.
The signature product of this cafe is a “Supreme Croissant”, a very recent re-invention which came out of New York and is loosely based on a traditional croissant. A butter-rich, sheet of laminated dough is wound into a spiral to form a crisp, crunchy disc.
I noticed the ‘BLT’ on the menu – “Beef, lobster & truffle in a ‘Supreme’ croissant”. At £16.50, it was more than I wanted to spend, particularly on this first opportunity to try the cafe. As I was considering alternatives I noticed the waitress glancing repeatedly at her watch. Was I taking too much time, perhaps? In fact, she was checking the time as we were coming up to noon when morning items on the menu would cease to be available. Helpfully, she volunteered the information that a smoked salmon and cream cheese filled croissant would – for a few more moments at least – remain available. That suggestion was perfect. I ordered it but then wavered on the decision of what to drink with it. I had in mind something chilled and sparkling and the menu offered Moet & Chandon Champagne, Prosecco and cocktails. Thinking out loud, I mused that I used to dislike Prosecco. I’d tried some poor examples in the past but then had been impressed with some I’d tasted recently. Without hesitation, the waitress offered to bring a bottle for me to read the label.
A well-chilled glass of Prosecco arrived and it was a very good match for the lightly smoky, softly textured salmon. This drier style wine was perfect to pair with the rich, cream cheese. The “Supreme Croissant” itself had a precision-made appearance and a deeply golden crust. It was crunchy but feather-light. I missed the light, airy interior you would normally associate with croissants. However, this crisp disc was a good contrast to the soft filling.
Accessibility
The lower ground floor is accessible by both lifts and escalators. An accessible toilet is available within the store. A baby changing room is also provided in-store.
Prices
As for prices, the Supreme Salmon Croissant was £8.75 and the glass of Prosecco £10. (Filled Croissants start from £6.50). Salads range from £12.50 to £14. Wine starts at £7 per glass and Champagne from £15 per glass. Hot drinks range from £3 to £5.50.
A service charge of 10% is added automatically but described as discretionary.
Comment
The promise of a “modern twist on a classic tea room” is justified. With good quality ingredients, attractive food presentation and pro-active service from staff in a pleasant environment, I would be happy to return. Having seen the standard of patisserie on display, the prospect of a “Fred’s” Afternoon Tea* seems very promising. I shall report back on that in due course!
Details
Address: Fenwick, 39 Northumberland Street, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 7AS
Telephone: 0800 783 1783
Website: fenwick.co.uk
Notes: This is a “walk-in” restaurant though pre-booking is required for a full afternoon tea.
- There is a short article on the history of afternoon tea on capitalletters.blog:
- https://capitalletters.blog/2021/02/02/afternoon-tea-and-me/
A.P.
Photo Credits: © A.P.
Please note: this review has also been published on “TripAdvisor” in edited form under the username “Aileron 777”.
EatNorthEast 