travel – EatNorthEast

In recent years, every time I’ve made a day trip to York with friends, we have trodden the same path. Turning left from the railway station, walking along Station Road, then Station Avenue towards Lendal Bridge, where we stay for a while to take in the view of the River Ouse. It’s an established custom of ours.

The River Ouse, viewed from Lendal Bridge, York

As pleasant and convenient as that route may be, it has come to my attention that it has a drawback. We have been walking past a venue that’s shielded from view by the city wall and ramparts: The Grand Hotel.

I realise, now, that it is possible to catch a brief glimpse of the hotel when following that route, but as we invariably walk straight ahead – chatting as we go – the building has been all too easy to miss.

The Grand Hotel, partially hidden by the city wall.

A Grand Discovery

I might have remained oblivious to this hotel’s existence were it not for one of my favourite TV cookery shows: Great British Menu. This cooking competition for professional chefs features brief segments in which each contestant is interviewed at their place of work.

In 2025 Ahmed Abdalla, Head Chef at Legacy restaurant at The Grand Hotel, took part in the competition. A short interview with the chef offered an intriguing glimpse of the restaurant and of the hotel. I made a mental note to investigate the venue.

Weeks later, with a business meeting planned in York, it seemed the perfect opportunity to have lunch at Legacy. I hadn’t realised, until I tried to book a table, that this restaurant only offers evening service. My idea was thwarted.

After reading through the hotel’s website in greater detail, I formulated an alternative plan: to start with a cocktail in The 1906 Bar then follow with a leisurely afternoon tea. Not only would that extend my interlude at The Grand but I’d have the opportunity to assess two of its dining areas in one visit.

The History

The Grand Hotel came into being relatively recently. The building opened 120 years ago, serving as the headquarters of the North Eastern Railway. Decades later, the former office building was sold and lay empty for several years.

It came to life once more in 2010 as a luxury hotel, having been extensively and carefully restored. Features and architectural details of this Edwardian building have been thoughtfully conserved and serve as enduring reminders of its history.

A Grand Day Out

I travelled to York on a warm day in late August. After attending to business and wandering for a while through the famed cobbled streets of the city, I stepped into the cool and airy sanctuary of The Grand’s lobby.

I chose to sit in the lounge area furthest from the counter. As I walked from the counter through the length of the bar, I noticed some diners eating a late lunch. The food looked beautifully presented and very appealing but, having a reservation for afternoon tea, I knew this would not be my time for trying out the bar’s food menu!

The bar lounge proved to be an ideal haven in a bustling city on a warm day. The high ceilings, the decor – which strikes a balance between warmth and cool calmness – and an abundance of space result in an atmosphere which offers tranquillity.

The Drinks Menu

This bar’s drinks menu is extensive and impressive. For me, the highlight is the cocktail menu with its range of “timeless classics”, “modern classics” and refreshing spritzes. Non-alcoholic cocktails are also made.

“Whisky Flights” are something I’d be keen to sample, with trios of vintage whiskies selected according to origin.

There are a also couple of locally produced gins on the list which merit further scrutiny!

I scanned the menu for cocktails offering floral scents and flavours or essences of fruit. The word “Calvados” caught my eye. The inclusion of this French apple brandy in a drink or a food recipe will capture my attention immediately. Add the word “Champagne” and I’ll be completely won over! The description of the bar’s “Calvados Spritz” was music to my ears: Calvados, Elderflower, Champagne. There was the floral element I’d been seeking.

It struck me, when the drink arrived, that it had been made with a serious, no-nonsense approach. No sparklers, no theatrical embellishments or gimmicks. Served in a simple, large wine glass and garnished only with fresh apple slices, the focus was entirely on the ingredients and the balanced mixing.

It occurred to me that this was a cocktail for all seasons. We were approaching autumn which made the apple flavour seem appropriate. There was a powerful warmth coming from the spirit too – this could be enjoyed during winter months. It would not be out of place in spring either. I could not specifically isolate elderflower flavour but it was evident that there was something gently floral and fragrant balancing the drink. The cocktail was very refreshing and set the scene perfectly for the meal ahead.

Accessibility

The 1906 Bar is on the hotel’s ground floor and the main entrance to the building can be approached via a gently sloped, low ramp.

The hotel’s website describes the building and its facilities as being “fully accessible“.

Prices

Cocktails are priced at around £16 and non-alcoholic mixes at £12. Bear in mind that a discretionary service charge of 12.5% will be added to this.

The full bar menu and up-to-date price list is available on The Grand Hotel‘s website.

Tips for Visiting York

The Grand Hotel is less than five minutes’ walk from the mainline railway Station which links York with cities throughout England and Scotland. The walking route is flat and follows pedestrian footpaths which are served by light-controlled road crossings.

Daffodils on the the city wall ramparts in York, England

York is a city to visit all year round, but it is particularly beautiful in Springtime when daffodils adorn the city’s walls, Clifford’s Tower and the Museum Gardens.

Comment

“One cocktail does not a bar review make” (if you will forgive my invention of a maxim!), but my brief experience was enough to make me want to return, which is a key indicator.

The decor and atmosphere were relaxing, the bar staff worked quietly and unobtrusively, the food looked inviting and the cocktail I enjoyed was excellent.

The relaxing time I spent in The 1906 Bar set the tone for the rest of the afternoon in The Grand. I left the lounge with the conviction that I’d really like to return, making The 1906 Bar the destination for my next visit and taking time to linger.

Bar and Hotel Details

Address: The Grand, Station Rise, York YO1 6GD

Telephone: 01904 380038

Website: https://www.thegrandyork.co.uk

A.P 8 Feb 2026

Photo Credits:

York city wall and daffodils: ID 275466306 | Daffodils In York © Clare Jackson | Dreamstime.com

All other Photos: © A.P.

My initial impression on viewing this dining area was of a turn-of-the-century French cafe. Bistrot-style tables with marble tops and metal pedestals; simply styled wooden chairs; black and white chequered tiled floor. This, it turned out, was precisely the aim of its designers.

History

A note on the menu explains that the Fred in question was part of the Fenwick family who founded the store. Fred Fenwick loved French culture and had an interest in the era known as the “Belle Epoque“. In 1911 Fred opened a tea room in the store and that piece of history has inspired the opening of this new cafe.

There are also touches to the decor which suggest the Jazz Era of the Roaring Twenties – the motifs and fonts of the menu design; the positioning of palms. A sleek, curved bar conjures images of a streamlined ocean liner from the thirties. Were those features intended to allude to the decades which followed the Belle Epoque and the ongoing march of time? I could ponder for hours on that point but moving on from the style of the cafe, what did I discover about its substance?

Despite being situated in the basement of the department store the cafe has an airy feel and is in a relatively quiet spot tucked away from busier footfall areas.

The Food

While waiting to be greeted by staff at the cafe entrance, there’s an opportunity to browse patisserie items in an adjacent chilled cabinet. The patisserie looks exquisite. They have been executed with precision, care and flair. Whether they taste as good as they look, I cannot say since I wanted a savoury option on that occasion – an early, light lunch.

The signature product of this cafe is a “Supreme Croissant”, a very recent re-invention which came out of New York and is loosely based on a traditional croissant. A butter-rich, sheet of laminated dough is wound into a spiral to form a crisp, crunchy disc.

I noticed the ‘BLT’ on the menu – “Beef, lobster & truffle in a ‘Supreme’ croissant”. At £16.50, it was more than I wanted to spend, particularly on this first opportunity to try the cafe. As I was considering alternatives I noticed the waitress glancing repeatedly at her watch. Was I taking too much time, perhaps? In fact, she was checking the time as we were coming up to noon when morning items on the menu would cease to be available. Helpfully, she volunteered the information that a smoked salmon and cream cheese filled croissant would – for a few more moments at least – remain available. That suggestion was perfect. I ordered it but then wavered on the decision of what to drink with it. I had in mind something chilled and sparkling and the menu offered Moet & Chandon Champagne, Prosecco and cocktails. Thinking out loud, I mused that I used to dislike Prosecco. I’d tried some poor examples in the past but then had been impressed with some I’d tasted recently. Without hesitation, the waitress offered to bring a bottle for me to read the label.

A well-chilled glass of Prosecco arrived and it was a very good match for the lightly smoky, softly textured salmon. This drier style wine was perfect to pair with the rich, cream cheese. The “Supreme Croissant” itself had a precision-made appearance and a deeply golden crust. It was crunchy but feather-light. I missed the light, airy interior you would normally associate with croissants. However, this crisp disc was a good contrast to the soft filling.

Accessibility

The lower ground floor is accessible by both lifts and escalators. An accessible toilet is available within the store. A baby changing room is also provided in-store.

Prices

As for prices, the Supreme Salmon Croissant was £8.75 and the glass of Prosecco £10. (Filled Croissants start from £6.50). Salads range from £12.50 to £14. Wine starts at £7 per glass and Champagne from £15 per glass. Hot drinks range from £3 to £5.50.

A service charge of 10% is added automatically but described as discretionary.

Comment

The promise of a “modern twist on a classic tea room” is justified. With good quality ingredients, attractive food presentation and pro-active service from staff in a pleasant environment, I would be happy to return. Having seen the standard of patisserie on display, the prospect of a “Fred’s” Afternoon Tea* seems very promising. I shall report back on that in due course!

Details

Address: Fenwick, 39 Northumberland Street, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 7AS

Telephone: 0800 783 1783

Website: fenwick.co.uk

Notes: This is a “walk-in” restaurant though pre-booking is required for a full afternoon tea.

There is a short article on the history of afternoon tea on capitalletters.blog:
https://capitalletters.blog/2021/02/02/afternoon-tea-and-me/

A.P.

Please note: this review has also been published on “TripAdvisor” in edited form under the username “Aileron 777”.